Stove & cooktop repair in Waukegan
Gas cooktops in rentals that click without lighting after a boil-over.
Burners that click but won’t light, a weak flame, a glass top that stopped heating? Most burner problems come down to one small part and one visit.
Most stove and cooktop problems are small. A gas burner that won’t light usually needs a clean port or a new igniter. An electric burner that won’t heat usually needs a new element or a new switch. It’s rare that the whole cooktop needs replacing.
We repair gas ranges, gas cooktops, electric coil and glass-top stoves, induction cooktops and pro-style rangetops. Common brands include GE, Frigidaire, Whirlpool, Samsung, Bosch and Thermador. Bosch induction cooktop repair is a growing share of that work.

On a gas stove, each burner needs a spark, gas and air to light. If the igniter is cracked or wet, if the burner ports are clogged with food, or if the spark module is failing, you’ll hear clicking with no flame, or clicking that won’t stop.
On an electric stove, a burner that won’t heat is usually the element itself or the infinite switch behind the knob. Frigidaire electric ranges are a frequent example, and a Frigidaire range repair like that is usually done in one visit. On a glass-top or induction cooktop, a single dead zone often points to a failed element or a control board.
Burner trouble we hear about:
A burner that keeps clicking after it’s lit is often a wet or dirty igniter after a spill, or a failing spark module. A yellow, lazy flame means the burner isn’t getting enough air or the ports are partly blocked. Cleaning fixes that more often than people think.
Cracked glass tops can be replaced on most models. It’s worth doing on a cooktop that otherwise works well. We’ll check part availability before you commit.

Every common cooktop type.
For oven problems on a range, see our oven repair page.
Cooktop brands on our schedule:
Gas stoves are a big share of our cooktop work across Lake County, including stove repair in Libertyville, where many ranges sit on gas lines that were moved more than once.
Gas smell near the stove? Close the supply valve and call the gas company first; we come after they clear it.
Stoves and cooktops are worth repairing in most cases. Igniters, spark modules, elements and burner switches are inexpensive parts, and a range that cooks well otherwise can keep going for years after one of them is replaced. The range hood repair above it is usually just as fixable: a fan motor, a switch or a light socket.
Replacement starts to make sense when a glass top is cracked on an older model and the part is expensive or hard to find, or when the main control fails on a budget induction cooktop. We quote it first; if you’d rather replace the cooktop, you pay for the diagnosis and nothing else.
Old gas ranges in the lakefront cities, pro-style rangetops on the North Shore.
Gas cooktops in rentals that click without lighting after a boil-over.
Six-burner rangetops whose spark modules get wet every time a pot boils over.
Simmer burners in older houses that blow out at the lowest setting.
Induction cooktops in rebuilt kitchens that drop a zone or overheat.
Wolf, Thermador and Viking rangetops in large kitchens, plus induction islands.
Coil-top electric ranges with a dead element or a switch that only works on high.
Stop using that zone and send us the model number; we will check whether the glass is still available.
(224) 778-9765Usually a clogged burner port, a cracked or wet igniter, or a burner cap that isn’t seated correctly. Check the cap first. If it still won’t light, the igniter or spark module needs a look.
It isn’t usually dangerous, but it means moisture or grease got onto the igniter, or the spark module is failing. Let it dry for a day. If it continues, we can fix it.
Yes, gas ranges and cooktops from all major brands, including pro-style rangetops from Thermador, Wolf and Viking.
On most models, yes. We check part availability and price first, and tell you if a new cooktop makes more sense.
That usually points to the infinite switch behind the knob, not the burner itself. It’s a quick part to replace.
Yes. Dead zones, error codes and boards that won’t power on are the most common induction problems we see.
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